Indigenous Landscape Design: Trema orientalis Pigeon Wood Tree

Indigenous Landscape Design: Trema orientalis Pigeon Wood Tree: Trema orientalis is a common pioneer tree which belongs to the hemp (dagga) family, Cannabaceae. Pigeon Wood Trema orientalis ...

Trema orientalis Pigeon Wood Tree

Trema orientalis is a common pioneer tree which belongs to the hemp (dagga) family, Cannabaceae.

Pigeon Wood Trema orientalis

Trema orientalis has a very wide distribution in the tropical and warm temperate parts of the Old World. It´s range extends from South Africa, through Africa the Middle East, the Indian subcontinent into southern China, Southeast Asia  including the Philippines and Australia.

Over it´s wide range Trema orientalis has many common names which include pigeon wood, charcoal-tree and gunpowder tree

Trema orientalis has considerable ecological significance being a very productive tree

with at least 14 species of butterfly using it as a larval food plant. Many species of birds are attracted to this tree to eat the vast amounts of small berries that it produces almost continuously throughout the year or to feed on the abundant insects which live on these trees. 

Pigeon Wood Trema orientalis berries

In my own garden they are frequented by a large number of bird species which include Black Collard Barbet, Crested Barbet, Yellow Rumped Tinker Bird, Glossy, Black Bellied, Violet Backed and Redwinged Starlings, Purple Crested Turaco, White Eyes, Thickbilled Weavers, Klaas Cuckoo Diederik Cuckoo, Somber Bulbul, Grey Bulbul, Speckled Mouse bird, Ring Necked Doves and many others. 

The vast numbers of tiny greenish yellow flowers are pollinated by various bee species which attract insect eating birds.

Pigeon Wood Trema orientalis flowers

The leaves are also browsed by game animals and can be used as spinach. This tree is a fast growing species found in previously disturbed areas and on forest margins. It is a pioneer species that can grow on poor soil and can be used to regenerate forest areas by providing shade and protection to saplings of forest hardwoods

Trema orientalis is a nitrogen fixing tree which improves soil fertility for other plant species.

From a conventional landscaping point of view Trema orientalis  is not a very suitable candidate for a landscape feature tree because it often looks rather messy due to its leaves being eaten by just about every conceivable insect however it is a must in every garden that strives to encourage wildlife.

Pigeon Wood Trema orientalis leaves eaten by insects

Being a pioneer tree Trema orientalis is very useful when it comes to establishing a new proudly South African garden in particular on poor soils providing shade and a windbreak for other plants that are being established.

Trema orientalis is invaluable when it comes to indigenous forest restoration where it provides shade, nutrients and organic material in the form of dead leaves and vast amounts of excrement from the many insects that feed on its leaves. In addition it provides protection for the slower growing and more tender specimens. Seeds of many trees are also brought onto site by birds which come to feed on the seeds though this may not always be a good thing where undesirable alien plants seeds are brought in by birds feeding on its fruits.

Lily Grass or Weeping Anthericum

Anthericum saundersiae Synonym. Chlorophytum saundersiae

Anthericum saundersiae is an excellent and very versatile landscape bedding plant that can be grown in the full sun semi and even full shade it is an asset to any landscape design in particular where one would like to plant a productive plant the brings in vast amounts of wildlife into the landscape or garden.

Anthericum saundersiae plant is named after Katharine Saunders plant collector and botanical artist who was born Katharine Wheelwright (1824-1901) in Tansor, Northamptonshire, England  she emigrated to Tongaat, Natal with her husband James who later became the sole proprietor of the Tongaat Sugar Estate in 1860.

I first collected Anthericum saundersiae which I found growing in full sun at the Treasure Beach grasslands in Durban in the late 1970`s. The tiny insignificant single stemmed specimen that I collected grew rapidly under my care and soon started to produce vast amounts of seed which germinated readily under the ideal conditions that I gave it and in no time at all I had large numbers of this delightful little plant. Anthericum saundersiae produces a profusion of little white star like flowers on long thin, arching stems from mid winter into late summer. Some years later I gave a number of my still unidentified plants to Geoff Nichols who took a specimen to the Natal Herbarium at Botanic Gardens where it was identified as Anthericum saundersiae. I grew and sold Anthericum saundersiae in my own nursery in small numbers but after they found their way to the Silver Glenn indigenous plant nursery they were propagated in large numbers making them much more available to the public.

In 2001 I went to stay in Germany where I became familiar with a very similar and popular specie Anthericum ramosa Syn. graminifolium so I was not at all surprised when I returned to South Africa seven years later and found Anthericum saundersiae growing in their countless thousands in nearly every new garden planting in and around Durban. Whether those plants now in cultivation came from the one tiny specimen that I collected way back in the 1970`s or from another source I do not know and probably will never know but the likely hood is certainly high that they did.

Anthericum saundersiae is a very productive trouble free garden plant that grows to about 700 mm which is ideal for the natural garden in that it attracts vast numbers of insects in particular large numbers of bee species from the very smallest to large bumble bees that when they land on the flower they weight them almost down to the ground causing them to bob up and down as they move from flower to flower setting the plants in motion as if they are dancing. I have observed that the foliage is also loved by Scrub Hares, domestic rabbits and in particular Egyptian Geese.

Although Anthericum saundersiae prefers to grow in full sun in fertile sandy soil it is a very versatile plant that will grow under almost any conditions in most soils from sand to heavy clay soils in frost free areas.

Anthericum saundersiae propagates very easily and profusely from seed but can also be subdivided when seed is not available. Seed germinates best in raised seed beds or directly on the ground in prepared sandy soil with a little very well rotted compost added, poor results may be obtained if seed is planted into a bark based growing medium in seed trays

Attracting dragonflies to your Proudly South African Indigenous Garden

It has been stated by environmental scientists that Dragon Flies in the garden are an indicator of a healthy well balanced environment in addition their sensitivity to habitat quality and their amphibious life cycle make dragonflies well suited for evaluating environmental changes.

Machado’s Skimmer Orthetrum machadoi (female) taken in my garden at Mount Moreland

They are carnivorous not only in the adult stages of their life cycle, but also in their larval stage. The dragonfly is considered as one of the best agile predator around.

During their nymph phase, when a dragonfly has to remain underwater, it eats aquatic insects, worms, mosquito larva, small fish, and little tadpoles. In this phase, it is empowered with a thrust mechanism system to boost its speed while following its prey. It also ejects water from its anal opening to increase its speed in times of need.

They feed on small insects such as bees, ants, wasps, butterflies, flies, and midges. A dragonfly has the ability to move in different directions swiftly. Hence, it can easily out-fly its prey on most occasions

Adult dragonflies often hunt for food in groups, when ants or termites are available in large numbers or when there are swarms of gnats are available in their proximity. Dragonflies keep mosquitoes at bay by feeding on them.

Julia Skimmer Orthetrum Julia (male) taken in my garden at Mount Moreland

It is rather easy to attract these most interesting and attractive insects into a healthy indigenous garden by providing breeding opportunities for them in the form of a natural pond either large or small in fact a tub with a few local aquatic plants is all that it takes to provide a breeding opportunity for dragonflies just as long as no fish are placed in them. There is no need to worry about mosquitoes once the pond had matured and attracted dragon flies as their larvae are voracious carnivores which relishing mosquito larvae.

For biological control to work enough mosquito larvae must survive in the ponds to feed the dragon fly nymphs, which largely feed on mosquito larvae, so a few larvae will always be found in the ponds, however this small number is compensated for a thousand fold by the vast numbers of adult mosquitoes that arrive from other sources that are controlled by the adult dragon flies.

In my own garden I have a number of tubs and shallow containers planted to an assortment of aquatic plants that together with plantings of suitable flowering plants attract very large numbers of Dragonflies to my own garden which act as a very good control for both flies and mosquitos.

Anthericum saundersiae

To help enhance the garden to attract dragonflies the addition of plants like Anthericum saundersiae, Chlorophytum cooperii and flowering grasses which attract large numbers of suitable insect pollinator provide vast amounts of food for these aerial acrobats.

Agapanthus praecox a floral Gem

Agapanthus praecox sups. orientalis

Agapanthus means love flower, the name agapanthus is made up of two Greek words agape love and anthos flower. The Zulu name for this plant is ubani.

Photo taken of a bed of Agapanthus praecox in flower at my home in Mount Moreland

Agapanthus belongs to the plant family Agapanthaceae which consists of only one genus that is endemic to southern Africa, meaning that Agapanthus occurs naturally nowhere else on Earth

This is one of the best known of our South African plants abroad having been first introduced to and grown in Europe since about 1652.

Agapanthus praecox is easy to grow and will even grow in poor soils provided it receives sufficient water in particular in summer. For Agapanthus praecox to perform at its best, it however requires a rich soil with plenty of compost and plenty of water year round in particular in spring and summer. Agapanthus praecox do best in full sun. 

Agapanthus praecox need to be lifted and divided every three to four years to keep them healthy and vigorous this being done just after they have finished flowering. They usually flower best in their first season after having been divided. When replanting reduce the foliage by a third to one half and reduce the roots by two-thirds. Replant immediately and water thoroughly.

Agapanthus are mostly free of pests but can from time to time be attached by the Agapanthus Borer Moth, Neuranethes spodopterodes which is native to South Africa. The larvae bore into the budding inflorescence and as they mature they tunnel down towards the leaves and rhizomes. The Agapanthus borer is often mistakenly referred to as Amaryllis borer Brithys crini pancratii which they are most certainly not. A severe attack can promote rot and may kill the plant.

The introduced exotic European garden snail can at times also do considerable damage if not controlled.

Agapanthus praecox with its neat growth habit and spectacular flowers is an asset and a must for every proudly South African garden and amenity horticultural landscape in the regions where they grow best.

For much of the year the Agapanthus plant does not attracts large numbers of insects or other creatures but when it comes to flowering time they attracts large numbers of bees in particular honey bees to the spectacular blue flowers. And along with the bees creatures that feed on bees such as crab spiders that wait in a flower to catch the fist unsuspecting bee that lands to take nectar and pollen as can bee seen in the photo below.

 A crab spider feeding on a bee that it has just caught.

No proudly South African garden or landscape should be without these most spectacular gems of our South African floral kingdom.

In addition to being spectacular garden plants Agapanthus praecox have many uses in traditional medicine and magic as well as being used as love charms. 

Acacia karroo one of South Africa's most beautiful and useful trees.

Acacia karroo (Vachellia karroo) Sweet thorn

This is one of South Africa's most beautiful and useful trees.

Acacia karroo

Acacia karroo which is native to southern Africa is a very attractive medium sized tree which due to it´s very wide natural distribution and tolerance to a wide range of soil types makes it suitable as a landscape tree in practically in any proudly South African garden. 

CMR Bean Beetle Mylabris oculata

In addition to being very attractive and suitable as a landscape feature it is also environmentally a very productive tree that attracts very large numbers of insects when in flower in particular honey bees which makes it an asset to any garden. When out of flower it is the host for a large number of insect species including butterfly many or which are a valuable food source for in particular birds. Acacia karroo is fast growing and flowers when very small so there is no need to wait for years to see and to experience the benefits of planting this tree.

Honey Bee Mimic Eristalinus taeniops

Acacia karroo is an integrally part of our country's history having been used for everything from raft-making to sewing needles and fencing for the houses of the royal Zulu women. The thorns were even used by early naturalists to pin the insects they collected!

Common Dotted Fruit Chafer Cyrtothyrea marginalis

A long running debate about the classification of Acacia was resolved at the 2011 Botanical Conference held in Melbourne.

The debate arose out of research over the past few decades which established that the two main groups of acacias (the African and Australian groups) were distinct and needed to be separated into different genera. The debate centered around the issue of which group of plants would retain the name Acacia, based on the following opposing views:

Those supporting the retention of the name Acacia for the African group argued that the genus was originally described from an African species, Acacia nilotica

Those supporting the retention of Acacia for the Australian group argued that the vast majority of species occurred in Australia and that reclassification of those species would incur considerable disruption and expense.

In the end the Australians were the winners and a group of African trees know as Acacias since ancient and biblical times now have other names.

Until the reclassification of the genus, Acacia had about 1400 species spread over five sub-genera.  Now Acacia is a genus of around 1000 species, most of which occur in Australia with another dozen or so being found in Asia.

Garden Fruit Chafer Pachnoda sinuata

What we have always known as Acacia karroo is now officially known as

Vachellia karroo a name that many including myself having voted against the name change will never accept.

If you insist on having a Lawn as part of your indigenous garden then please make sure it is not a weed patch

 Your lawn certainly does not need to be premium turf but please ensure that it is healthy, it need not be a monoculture of one grass specie, but please ensure that it is not a weed patch full of exotic weeds

Introduction
This article has been written specifically for the management of warm season grasses in  Durban, South Africa. The terms lawn and turf apply to one and the same thing grass plants of various species that have been cultured in a particular unnatural manner due to the misguided sense of order of modern man which dates to no earlier than the 16th century and in its present form probably no longer than a hundred years.

Following the establishment of your lawn, the focus now changes to Turf Management.  Contrary to popular belief, Turf Management does not need to be a daily chore, although the amount of work necessary depends on the quality of lawn desired.  For many only minor changes to existing Turf Management practices is all that is required to have a top quality lawn.

Grass species best suited to growing conditions in Durban

The most commonly planted and certainly the two most suitable lawn grasses that are found growing in Durban are the two local indigenous grass species;

Cynodon dactylon the dominant grass in Durban is a fine grass which is the only grass suitable for hard wearing sports turf and other high use areas.

Berea Grass Dactyloctenium australe, is a very versatile grass that is well suited to both domestic as well as amenity horticulture. Berea Grass grows best in full sun on sandy soils where it is found growing naturally in the coastal dune systems, it will also do well in medium shade.

Your lawn does not need to be trimmed neatly all of the time from time to time you can let it flower and seed this will bring in the most unbelievable number of bees of many species.

Country Club Paspalum vaginatum  This local indigenous grass is a salt tolerant specialist grass that has been developed for golf greens and which is generally not suitable for domestic lawns.

Cynodon Hybrids. There are also specialist fine leafed hybrid grasses requiring specialised care to perform well which have been developed from Cynodon dactylon and Cynodon transvaalensis species for golf greens and are generally not suitable for any other use.

The following foreign grass species are also found growing in Durban in small amounts. 
Please avoid using these foreign invasive and destructive grass species because we have very suitable local indigenous grasses.

Buffalo Grass Stenotaphrum secundatum known elsewhere as St. Augustines Grass is an alien invasive grass from the Americas which I do not recommend planting in Durban.

Kearsney or Carpet Grass Axonopus compressus as it is known elsewhere is a tropical grass from the Americas which is also an alien invasive grass from the Americas which I do not recommend planting in Durban.

Kikuyu Pennisetum clandestinum  this is a highly invasive very destructive foreign grass which does not like the hot humid conditions at the coast but does grow well in the cooler inland suburbs of Durban.

Mowing

Mowing is the most important task undertaken.  Make sure the mower blades are kept sharp at all times as blunt blades will damage the grass leaves and give a poor quality unsightly cut. The commonly adopted approach to grass cutting is that of scalping the lawn at periodic intervals, (i.e. setting the mower too low) this causes serious damage to turf grasses, thus negatively affecting the quality of the lawn.  This practice in conjunction with insufficient or inappropriate fertilizing is one of the main reasons why lawns become sparse and dominated by weeds. A mower with blunt blades, especially a rotary type mower that cuts lawn by impact does considerable physical damage to the grass leaf which increases the grass plant's susceptibility to fungal and bacterial attack, increases moisture loss and gives the lawn a ragged white look. The best mowers to use on fine turf are well set reel mowers that slice cleanly through the grass leaf. Reel mowers give the finest cut and also roll the lawn smooth they are used primarily on golf greens and fairways, sports fields and bowling greens and by the home gardener who demands a high quality lawn.  Under no circumstance whatever should a lawn ever be mowed with an edging machine, (weed eater) because the cutting action is by impacting the grass blade with a blunt instrument, the nylon cord, which tears the grass leaf to shreds leaving a very untidy ragged finish. The second reason for not using and edging machine to cut lawn is that it is impossible to accurately control the correct cutting height the usual consequence is the lawn is cut far too short and very often the sensitive growing tips of the grass plants are totally destroyed opening up an avenue for the invasion of weeds which eventually completely take over and replace the grass cover.

Mowing Height

Each turf grass species has its own optimal mowing height for the use it is being put to.  When mown regularly within the correct height range, a uniform dense turf cover is encouraged which limits the opportunity for weeds to establish.  Conversely, mowing too low or too high thins the turf, which allows bare areas to develop, in time these areas become colonized by weeds. As a rule of thumb for home lawns a height between 25- 40 mm gives the best results. In shady areas the lawn should be allowed to grow a little longer. Short lawns look neater however the grass plants have shorter roots systems, and suffer more environmental stress. This means that short lawns require very careful management, in particular watering, fertilizing and mowing. Increasing the height of cut under stress conditions in particular during summer drought periods is a good management practice, which helps to maintain a healthy lawn.

Mowing Frequency

The rule of thumb is to remove no more than 25% of the grass plant leaf at any one time.  Scalping (removing all or most of the leaf and the growing points, as well as parts of the stem) severely damages or kills the turf grass plants thus allowing weed seeds the opportunity to germinate and to establish themselves in the lawn, this bad management practice provides the opportunity for weeds to better compete.

Mowing height and frequency will depend on:

The specie variety of grass as well as the time of the year (for example, growth is more vigorous in Autumn/Spring than in winter.

Mowing height and frequency is dependant on the use the lawn is to be put to as well as personal preference.

Mowing a little less frequently and raising the height of the cut during hot periods will reduce moisture loss.

The more frequently the lawn is mowed the better the quality of the lawn produced

If you wish to improve the appearance of the lawn for a special event, the best result will be achieved through an increase in mowing frequency not a lowering of height.  This may involve mowing up to three times per week.  This increase in frequency should begin at a minimum two weeks before the event.

Lawn clippings

Grass clippings can be left on the lawn after cutting, rather than removing them this applies in particular to domestic lawns on sandy soils. The clippings decompose quickly, returning nutrients to the soil within weeks of mowing. The macro elements contained within the clippings comprise of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium at ratios of 5:2:3, respectively. Trace minerals are also present. The amount of nitrogen returned to the soil is as much as 88 kg/ha. Since nitrogen is the most expensive component of all lawn fertilizers, it pays to leave clippings.
Clippings also enhance the habitat for beneficial soil micro-organisms. Earthworms ingest the clippings at night, further increasing the aeration and fertility of the soil, and maintaining a base that allows the lawn to feel springy when walked on. If the grass clippings are removed, worms will migrate to other more favourable habitats this will negatively influence soil structure and fertility.
Whether to return or remove the clippings or to return them to the soil is a personal choice. 

I personally believe that it is a good environmental practice to allow the grass clippings to remain onsite.

There are good reasons in favour of both options.

Where clippings are returned to the soil the advantages include:

Mowing is easier
Mowing is (generally) cheaper in particular where contractors are employed
Nutrients are recycled to the lawn
It is a good environmental practice to do so

The lawn will not require to be fertilized as often.

The disadvantages of clipping return include:

The finish may not be as good
Disease could under certain circumstances be enhanced
On weedy lawns, weed seed is returned to the soil
Where clippings are too thick, the turf can become smothered allowing weeds to establish.
A possible Increase in thatch build-up. (Thatch is an accumulation of dead leaf and stems and shoot mass encountered on well used lawns that experience large amounts of traffic, thatch reduces or prevents the penetration of water into the soil and a reduced gas exchange to the root zone). Thatch is seldom encountered on home lawns.
Leaf cuttings could be blown into swimming pools

Fertilizing

The grass plants, which make lawns as with all living organisms, require nutrients to grow and to be healthy. Regular applications of fertilizer supply the required nutrients thus ensuring vigorous healthy grass plants and a top quality lawn. The nutrients essential for growth within the soil are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) and iron (Fe). As a result of lawn culture certain essential plant nutrients are lost to the system, due to the removal of grass clippings, leaching of nutrients out of the root zone as well as losses of nitrogen to the atmosphere. Nitrogen deficient grass is yellow-green, and lacks vigour. Nitrogen produces deep green leaves, rapidly growing leaves and shorter roots. Phosphorus facilitates metabolic functions plus energy storage and use. Potassium is used to create cell components, and it helps regulate respiration and transpiration. It helps the plant grow, withstand environmental stress and resist disease. Fertilizers should contain N, P and K. where possible select a balanced fertilizer that contains a mixture of slow and fast release N. This allows the lawn to green up with 2-3 days and stay green for several weeks. Iron can be used to control moss and some broad-leaved weeds. Iron darkens the grass, making it appear greener without stimulating growth. In Durban with it´s high average rainfall and generally sandy berea red soils leaching of plant growth nutrients is generally very high so frequent preferably monthly low application rates of fertilizer are recommended. This does not only benefit the lawn producing far better growth but the annual use of fertilizer is reduced considerably

Always use a balanced lawn fertilizer.

Greening of Lawns

To give the lawn a good green colour without boosting the growth rate water or spray with a ferrous sulphate solution at the rate of 50 to 150 grams per 100 square metres of lawn. This will have a superb greening effect on the lawn, only apply when there is plenty of moisture available for active growth. Ferrous sulphate at these concentrations can be applied at any time of year as long as good soil moisture is available and the temperatures are not excessive.

Increase the concentration to 150 to 200 grams and not only will it have a good green-up effect but it will also harden the turf making it more resistant to disease and fungal attack. This is a very common practice on sports turf in late autumn and winter in Europe but seldom if ever encountered here in South Africa.

Frequency of application
The general rule is that frequency should be such that turf density and colour is maintained.  Obviously the exact programme will be influenced by many factors, such as:

grass type
atmospheric conditions
soil type, i.e. sandy soils will require lighter more frequent dressings than loam/clay soils
whether clipped are moved or not
amount of wear received (high traffic areas require more regular dressings)

If your lawn begins to turn yellow then it may need fertilizer for chlorophyll synthesis to occur.
However, as with most things, over fertilizing may result in problems (thatch, disease) and ultimately an unhealthy and difficult to maintain lawn. Over fertilizing with high nitrogen fertilizers of Kearsney Grass Axonopus compressus can lead to yellowing and the eventual death of the grass.
As a general rule two main applications of a good balanced lawn fertilizer with a higher potassium (K) content in the spring and autumn and if needs be one or two light applications of a balanced fertilizer with a higher nitrogen (N) content during the Summer months will produce a high quality lawn, however be careful too much nitrogen applied in summer may stimulate lush growth and encourage diseases.

Fertilizer Application
Apply fertilizer uniformly to avoid variations in growth and the risk of killing the grass due to toxic doses. Never apply fertilizer by hand always use a mechanical fertilizer spreader, i.e. a rotating disc spreader, which can be purchased from most hardware and garden shops.  For even application when applying the fertilizer divide the fertilizer into two batches, and apply half in one direction and the rest at right angles to it. If using a spinning disc or broadcast spreader, set the machine to half the application rate and make adjacent runs at half the distance apart of the machine's spread.

1. Always apply a known weight of fertilizer to a known area at the recommended rate, to avoid fertilizer toxicity.
2. Avoid applying fertilizer in the heat of the day.
3. Never apply fertilizer to a lawn that is under moisture stress.
4. Always irrigate after applying fertilizer

To prevent corrosion to metal parts of the applicator, wash the applicators with water after use.

Watering
The use of irrigation is primarily to supplement deficiencies in rainfall, a good automatic system can be used to maintain the lawn in top condition throughout the summer.  However, care is required, as poor irrigation management in particular over watering can create problems.

Watering during establishment
As a general guide irrigate early morning again for a short period at mid-day and again in the early evening
There are cost effective water timers and sprinklers available from retail outlets.

Quantity
When irrigating, completely wet the root zone rather than just wetting the surface.  To avoid wastage, water should be applied at a rate so that ponding is avoided.  This may require several short bursts of watering rather than a single irrigation cycle.

Watering after establishment
Turf grass is a relatively high user of water. Enough water to completely wet the root zone must be applied at each watering. The frequency of watering will be determined by atmospheric conditions and the water retention properties of the soil. Irrigate before the first signs of wilting to avoid damage to the lawn. A rule of thumb for top quality irrigated lawns is to apply 25 mm per week during the summer months

Weeds
Weeds are all unwanted plants that will colonize your lawn if you engage in bad management practices, for instance, incorrect mowing height and frequency, insufficient or inappropriate watering, the lack of regular applications of or too much fertilizer, or to a much lesser extent insect or disease attack.
When the turf looses its density and uniformity an open sward develops that leaves it wide open to colonization by unwanted weeds. Weeds in turf grasses can be very effectively controlled with the use of herbicides and by implementing a good turf management program.
To correctly apply herbicides is a skilled job that requires a good understanding of their application and mode of action as well as the correct identification of the particular weed to be eradicated.  There are many herbicides that can successfully remove weeds, both broad leaf and weed grasses from lawns, however if you are not experienced in turf care, consult an expert.

When applying herbicides always:

Read the manufacturer's instructions on the label
Follow all safety and application instructions
Wear safety equipment as required
Use a calibrated sprayer

Insect Pests
The most frequent encountered insect pests in Durban are;
   
Army worm and lawn crickets that require specific insecticides to eradicate.

As with weed control, there is a large range of insecticides on the market. 

When applying insecticides always:

Read the manufacturer's instructions on the label well
Follow all safety and application instructions to the letter
Wear safety equipment as required
Use a calibrated sprayer

Consider neighbours and the environment

Always use the less toxic option
When in doubt always consult an expert.

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Ecoman Sports Turf and Lawn Expert

I have considerable experience with establishing and managing both warm season as well as cool season grasses which has been gained in Durban, South Africa, Wilhelmshaven, Germany and Auckland, New Zealand.
Sports Turf Construction Experience
My sports turf construction experience includes the construction of many sports fields for football, rugby hockey and cricket, golf course greens, bowling greens, turf wickets in Durban, South Africa over a period of more than 25 years mostly while working for the Durban Parks Department, which were all planted to warm season grasses in particular Cynodon dactylon varieties. I also constructed and renovated a number of football fields and rugby fields in New Zealand.
Amenity Turf Construction Experience
Most of my amenity turf construction experience comes from over 28 years constructing and maintaining parks and gardens for the Durban Parks Department, I also gained valuable experience as a private contractor constructing parks and establishing cool season grasses mostly for the North Shore City Council in Auckland New Zealand.
Sports Turf and Amenity Turf Maintenance Experience
Most of my sports turf and amenity turf maintenance experience comes from the maintenance of a large number of parks, sports fields, road verges etc that were  under my direct care as a horticulturist then later as a horticultural manager during the 28 years that I was employed by the Durban Parks Department
Domestic lawn Establishment and Maintenance Experience
My domestic lawn establishment and maintenance experience has been gained on warm season grasses in Durban and on cool season grasses in Wilhelmshaven, Germany and Auckland, New Zealand. My first experience with domestic lawn care was gained as a young child helping my father do his annual spring treatment of our own domestic lawn up until today where I still do all my own lawn care including the cutting of my own lawn. I have also cared for lawn for commercial clients in South Africa, Germany and New Zealand over a period of over 40 years.
For a number of years I over seeded portions of my own domestic lawn in Durban in winter with cool season grasses to maintain a lush green lawn in areas that Cynodon dactylon had been planted.
Academic Achievements

Certificate in Turf Grass Management (Cum Laude)

Best Student Turf Grass Management Association 1984

Article written by Michael Hickman on 28 November 2013